When people who’ve been to Paris once and say they hate it, I think that’s fair but you have to go with me and then make a decision.
Paris is the city I find any excuse to go back to. Seeing my family is one excuse, spending the day with my grandad walking around his favourite areas like Montmartre and Saint Germain Des Pres. And sometimes I just want to be reminded how to live well, something London doesn’t always make easy.
I feel at home there, partly because my mum is from Paris, and also because unlike london I don’t have to apologise for drinking my coffee slowly. I’d say I experience Paris like a local but also a tourist, somewhere in the middle because I love to discover new places but I also love going back to places I know and love. These aren’t the places you’ll find on a tourist list. They’re the places I’ve found by walking around, being hungry, or being taken by someone who knows. Some of them I’ve been going to for years now. I thought it was about time I shared them.
You don’t need a comprehensive guide for Paris but it helps to have a rough idea of where to go. It’s very easy to get it wrong. When I say follow this loosely, I mean it because Paris is for getting lost in and stumbling onto places that don’t exist in any guide book.
Le Pain Retrouvé
A local boulangerie I discovered when I rented a studio in the 9th arr. I needed a cake for my mum’s birthday whilst she was visiting and stumbled on this. I grabbed some fresh raspberries from the market and bought some candles from the supermarché. And couldn’t forget the finishing touch, Champagne, bien sûr.
I have gone back pretty much every time I find myself in Paris. There is nothing about this place that says they’re trying too hard. It’s stripped back, unpretentious, incredibly simple but never lets me down. The cakes are low key, I think about 12 euros. The dark chocolate and pear cake is absolutely delicious. I have even gone just before my eurostar just to bring a cake back with me to London.
Andy Wahloo
I love this place. It’s super low key. Quite hidden in a way that you have to know where to go. This is my go to for a little pre-dinner drink. It’s perfect for early evening and I have it in my back pocket for whenever I need a bar I can trust to be good.
Rue Princesse
Where the locals go. Known locally as part of the “rue de la soif” (the thirst street) along with Rue des Canettes and Rue Guisarde. It’s packed with bars, pubs, and cocktail spots. The street, especially in the summer, is packed with locals, students, and fêtards. It’s not touristy, it’s where Parisians actually go out. If you want to end up in a random Irish bar drinking tequila shots and still make it kinda classy, this is where you want to end up.
Marché Couvert des Enfants Rouges
There is nothing like a fresh oyster with a crisp glass of white wine in the middle of the day. When I’ve come here starving, it’s pretty overwhelming. It’s usually quite packed and if you’re not decisive about what you want to eat it’s a lot. However, the atmosphere makes it worth it.
9th Arrondissement, Rue des Martyrs
Full of small artisan shops, restaurants and cafés. Fresh produce, pastry shops, cheese shops, wine cellars. Oysters. This is the street I always end up walking down when I’m in Paris, even when I’m not trying to. It’s the kind of street where you go for one thing and come back with four.
Le Mary Celeste
I noticed this from across the street when we stayed at Hotel Sookie in Le Marais. We didn’t make it there that trip but I knew I’d be back. The people working here just get it. Spanish waiters, an Italian sommelier, it feels international but completely local at the same time, like a genuine neighbourhood spot. It’s the details that make a difference to me, the branded wine glasses, the postcard you receive with the bill.
Saisons Fromagerie
The first time I tried skin contact wine was here with a selection of the most delicious cheese. It was a summer’s day in June, mid afternoon. We hadn’t really eaten since brunch so we were happy to eat anything but this was special. I saved this address and made sure I’d come back next time I needed a selection of cheese. My family and I spent Christmas in Paris this year and I was not doing a Christmas in Paris without getting cheese from here.
Les Canailles
This is a place I adore in Paris. When I was in Paris with my mum a few years ago I had booked a table here as I was walking past it most days and wanted to give it a try. We had made a bit of a rooky error of eating a little too much for apéro but we didn’t want to sacrifice our booking. When we got to the restaurant we asked if we could just have a cheeseboard and some wine and they accommodated us like we were locals. We were sat next to two men from Madrid who were super friendly and we shared some wine with them as they spoke about their family. This was by far the best service you will get in Paris and I will never forget it.
Le Hibou
Saint Germain des Prés. I think I’ve been at least four times now. It’s very much a later dinner vibe. Sit on the terrace. If you don’t like cigarette smoke maybe don’t sit on the terrace but this corner spot is where the locals go. It’s been the start of some of my favourite nights. Ones where we’ve ended up speaking to the table next to us and ending up at an underground club.
Stay Trendie x